Understanding Your Hair Type

Before diving into care routines, it's important to identify your specific hair type. You can visit the section Learn more according to your hair type for more detailed information concerning your hair type.

Understanding when, why, and how to use oils, creams, and butters on natural hair is essential because these products serve different functional roles within the hair care system. They are not interchangeable, and using them incorrectly can lead to dryness, buildup, or poor moisture retention.

Natural hair, tends to be dry because the scalp’s natural oils (sebum) cannot easily travel along the bends and coils of the hair shaft. This is why water must always be the foundation of your routine. Oils, creams, and butters do not hydrate the hair by themselves; instead, they help retain moisture, improve manageability, and protect the hair fiber from external stress. The effectiveness of these products depends on timing, layering, and hair porosity.

Hair Porosity

Hair porosity determines how your hair absorbs, retains, and loses moisture, and it directly affects how oils, creams, and butters behave on your strands. Understanding your porosity allows you to choose the right weight, formulation, and layering technique for maximum effectiveness. There are three main porosity types: low, medium (normal), and high porosity, each requiring a different approach.

Low Porosity Hair

Low porosity hair has tightly closed cuticles, which makes it difficult for moisture to enter the hair shaft. Water tends to sit on the surface before slowly absorbing, and products can easily build up if they are too heavy. For this reason, lightweight oils such as jojoba, argan, or grapeseed oil work best because they mimic natural sebum and do not create excessive buildup. Heavy oils and butters (like castor oil or raw shea butter) should be used sparingly or avoided, as they tend to sit on the hair rather than penetrate, leaving it greasy without real hydration.

When it comes to creams, low porosity hair benefits from light, water-based creams or milk-type moisturizers that can penetrate more easily. Thick creams may coat the hair and block moisture absorption. The best method for this hair type is often LCO (Liquid, Cream, Oil), where you first hydrate the hair, then apply a light cream, and finally seal with a small amount of oil. Heat—such as warm water, steam, or a heated cap—is especially beneficial for low porosity hair because it helps open the cuticle and improves product absorption.

Medium (Normal) Porosity Hair

Medium porosity hair has a balanced cuticle structure, meaning it can absorb and retain moisture efficiently without excessive buildup or rapid moisture loss. This is the most manageable porosity type because it responds well to a wide range of products. Oils, creams, and butters can all be used effectively, but the key is moderation and balance.

For oils, both lightweight (jojoba, almond) and moderately heavy oils (olive oil) can work well depending on styling needs. Creams can be medium-weight, providing both moisture and definition without overwhelming the hair. Butters can also be used occasionally, especially for protective styles or colder weather, but should not be over-applied.

Medium porosity hair can follow either LOC or LCO methods, as it adapts well to both. The focus should be on maintaining moisture consistency rather than correcting imbalance. Product buildup is less of a concern, but regular cleansing is still necessary to keep the hair responsive.

High Porosity Hair

High porosity hair has raised or damaged cuticles, which allow moisture to enter quickly but also escape just as fast. This often results in hair that feels dry even after moisturizing. Because of this, high porosity hair requires strong sealing and reinforcement to retain moisture.

Heavier oils such as castor oil, olive oil, and avocado oil are ideal because they form a more effective barrier to slow down moisture loss. Butters like shea butter and mango butter are especially beneficial for this hair type, as they provide long-lasting sealing and protection, helping to fill gaps in the cuticle and reduce porosity-related damage.

Creams for high porosity hair should be rich and emollient, containing ingredients that soften the hair and improve elasticity. These creams help reduce breakage and maintain hydration between wash days. The LOC method (Liquid, Oil, Cream) is often recommended, as the oil reinforces the cuticle before the cream adds softness and additional sealing.

Additionally, protein treatments are more important for high porosity hair, as they help strengthen weakened cuticles and improve moisture retention over time.

Timing is also critical. Products should be applied immediately after washing or dampening the hair, when the cuticle is more receptive to moisture. Reapplication during the week should focus primarily on light hydration (water or leave-in), followed by minimal sealing, rather than repeatedly layering heavy products, which can lead to buildup and reduce effectiveness.

Ultimately, oils, creams, and butters should be viewed as a support system for moisture management, not as standalone solutions. When used correctly—based on your hair type, porosity, and environmental conditions—they work together to improve softness, elasticity, and overall hair health. The key is not using more products, but using the right product at the right time in the right order.

Oils, Creams and Butters